With Christmas just around the corner, why not banish the winter blues and escape into your childhood fantasies with a magical escape to Rovaniemi, the capital of Finnish Lapland in the Arctic Circle, and, best of all … home of the real Santa Claus!
Even if you’re a Santa Claus-sceptic, Rovaniemi can offer plenty of once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Whether it’s overnighting in a hotel made from tons of chunky ice and snow, riding a husky sleigh across the uninhabited Arctic wilderness, or hunting for the elusive aurora borealis (Northern Lights), this northern corner of Finland is a place that creates unforgettable lifelong memories.
We disembark in snow-covered Rovaniemi airport on a cold wintery March evening. The trees are laden with snow and the fresh snowfall crunches under our feet as we walk to the terminal.
We’re staying at the Santa Claus Village which is the heart of all the Christmas action. It is touristic and kitschy, yes, but it is also beautiful. The looks of anticipation on my daughters’ faces says it all.
At the hotel reception, we’re greeted by staff dressed as elves before heading to a little red cabin with a sauna inside and two toboggans on the porch. It’s dark with clear starlit skies overhead and the village is lit up with beautiful, colored lights. It’s magical.
Meet the local snowmen in their world
The next morning, we wake up to fresh snowfall, a blue sky, and a balmy -13 degrees Celsius. First up, is a visit to Snowman World where life-size “snowmen” waddle around.
Owned by the Arctic Snow Hotel & Glass Igloos, Snowman World is painstakingly rebuilt each year with huge slabs of ice from a nearby lake. It’s not huge but the ice carvings and sculptures in the bar and restaurant are stunning and the indoor ice slide is unique. There’s an ice maze outside which is great for hide & seek. But without doubt, the highlight (besides the cuddly “snowmen”) is the slide outside where you can zoom down the slopes in huge rubber tires. To warm up afterwards, take a hot chocolate in the café and don’t forget to get a hug and photo with the “snowmen” on your way out.
Now, it’s time to warm up. Head over to the nearby SantaMus restaurant for a hearty Lappish lunch. Nestled into the snow, this wooden hut with a trout-filled lake as its centerpiece oozes rustic Nordic style. They do a great lunch buffet with Lapland specialties — rainbow trout pie with sour cream, salmon, herring, beetroot, and cheese with cloudberry jam. Stock up and you’ll be well insulated for the rest of the day!
Reindeer Vs people
Did you know that there are more reindeer (200,000) than people (160,000) in Lapland? That’s why no trip to Lapland is complete without a reindeer ride at the “reindeer Grand Prix track” in Santa Claus Village.
After settling into the sleigh, we are handed the reins to steer a very temperamental reindeer around the track. Determined to give us the full experience, he tosses fresh snow into our faces and goes off-track for a snack before kicking up his heels to show us how fast he can run. Reindeers, the owner tells us, have a mind of their own. Some are moody and some simply lazy but you can’t help but fall in love with those big eyes.
After putting our reindeer-driving skills to the test, we visit the Arctic Circle Huskypark which is home to around 50 huskies, including my favorite, 7-year-old Batman, who stands watch with a charisma that’s unbeatable. We opt for the two-kilometer forest trail but there’s also a much longer one deep into the wilderness.
Explore Europe’s largest town (geographically)
Once you’ve wandered around the Santa Claus Village (check out the must-sees below) – taken a photo with the man himself and Mrs Claus, posted your Christmas letter in the post office and bought some quirky Finnish design memorabilia to take home with you, it’s time to check out downtown Rovaniemi.
Rovaniemi is also Europe’s largest town by area. The name Rovaniemi comes from the Sami word roaave which means an esker, or a hill covered by forest. In the Artikum Science Center, you can become an expert on the culture and lifestyle of the 4.5 million people living in this cold remote corner of Europe. Next door is another museum gem, the Pilke Science Center which focuses on Finland’s rich forestry and wood industry.
Ice, ice, baby!
Heading out of town deep into the remote forests, we find the world-famous Arctic Snow Hotel & Glass Igloos. Each year this stunning “ice hotel” is rebuilt in three weeks using molds and a snow cannon. The number of rooms depends on how many bookings are expected for the upcoming season.
Inside the Arctic Snow Hotel, it is “warm”, -5 to 0 degrees Celsius, compared to the bitter -13 degrees outside. The walls are made of thick layers of compacted snow with snow carvings which are created as the construction is being built. The ice sculptures are made from two-ton blocks of ice carved out of the frozen lake in spring when it starts to thaw and they are stored in huge freezers until winter. And that’s all I can tell you as the construction molds and methods are a closely guarded industry secret.
You can stay overnight or get married in the Ice Chapel. Personally, the most amazing feature of all at the Arctic Snow Hotel was the snow sauna. This is the only place in the world where you can take a piping-host sauna in a 90-degree room carved out of snow and ice.
But, whatever you do don’t try to take home the snowflake crystal dessert plate in the restaurant. Jutta, our tour guide, tells us that one guest loved it so much that he packed it carefully in his hand luggage only to find it missing when he got home. It melted.
After your tour of the Arctic Snow Hotel, enjoy a drink in the bar and smash your glass against the wall so it can be recycled into the snow.
So, you’ve fulfilled your childhood fantasy of meeting Santa Claus, seen the Northern Lights and done the reindeer and husky rides. The magic of Finland’s exotic Lapland region doesn’t end there. Next time you come back, you can try ice-fishing or ice-floating on a lake, spot more spectacular auroras or go snowshoeing in the wilderness. This corner of the world is addictive!
4 tips for an unforgettable experience
- Like an African safari, there’s no guarantee of spotting the spectacular Northern Lights. But sign up for the apps like Aurora Alerts, to increase your chances of being in the right place at the right time.
- Christmas is the dream time to visit Santa Claus Village but it’s worth going off peak in February or March as there is tons of snow, the skies are clear and there are less crowds.
- Once a trip that only the rich and famous could afford, it is possible to share the magic of this place with your family on a budget. Just avoid the middlemen and do your own research beforehand. Ryanair also operates direct flights from the UK, Italy, Ireland and Belgium.
- For accommodation, staying at the Santa Claus Village in one of the red-painted cabins is worth the money and you’ll save on car hire, taxis plus there are plenty of free things to do if you stay for a weekend. If you stay longer, there are plenty of affordable self-catering options in downtown Rovaniemi.
Must-see’s in Santa Claus Village
Roosevelt Cottage – The sturdy little wooden cabin at the entrance to Santa Claus Village is where it all started back in 1950 to celebrate Eleanor Roosevelt’s visit to the Arctic Circle. This was the first building on site; today it’s a small gift shop.
Snowmobile Museum – If you are a fan of everything fast and furious check out this exhibition which shows you everything needed for a smooth journey across the Arctic wilderness.
Santa Claus post office – post a personal letter to Santa or send a postcard to loved ones back home. Who wouldn’t love to receive a letter posted from the Arctic Circle?
Mrs Claus Christmas Cottage – often overshadowed by Mr Claus, Mrs Claus has bagged one of the prettiest buildings in Santa Claus Village. You’ll find her upstairs knitting socks and scarves in her rocking chair before you join the Elves downstairs for a coffee and freshly-baked cookie.
Photoshoot with Santa – The man himself is found next door to the reception. Make sure you seize a photo opp with him. He doesn’t talk much but he did give us a sneak peek of photos inside his cabin in the forest where he goes to escape from the hustle and bustle of the village.
Santa’s Salmon Place – Tucked away opposite the husky park, is this amazing wooden tepee-style hut which only serves salmon, freshly grilled on the oak-smoked fire. We had a great slab of it, accompanied with a Finnish salad and the melted cheese with cloudberry jam for starter. It is simple but truly delicious.
